Tiger Temple

Leaving for a day trip in a songtaew the group headed into the hills to visit Erewan National Park, location of a series of waterfalls which pour down the hillside amidst bamboo forest – and a pack of wild and naughty monkeys. We were warned about them, they steal anything which you can’t hold onto, and can be vicious.  The day was cloudy but warm, this is still winter in Thailand and the forest was brown with leaves on the ground making it feel wierd to be in hot weather surrounded by winter forest.  The short hike into the hills brought us to a pool of clear green water filled with hungry fish.  The swim was refreshing but the fish nibble and suck at your legs and arms making it really ticklish! Apparently in the war, POW soldiers would use this as a way to remove rotten flesh to heal wounds – nice!  I had no such wounds luckily, although I have a small scratch on my leg from falling off a Thai style squat toilet (but you probably don’t want those details).  So after a cool dip and some rock sliding, we returned downhill to the first pool for lunch and the chance to swim behind the waterfall into some limestone caves – quite good. I managed to hang onto my lunch without any scary monkeys - 

TIGERS! on the way back to Kanchanaburri we stopped at the Boon Hong ( I think) temple where the monks have raised tigers from the wild in the hope of resettling them, however, this is not easy and there are lots of adult and baby tigers at the temple along with other wild animals which roam the park.  For about 3 pounds (300 baht) you can wander into the park, meet the tigers and have your photos with them.  You are forbidden from taking in any bags or wearing red and even having dangly things about your body as these are ‘toys’ for sleepy cats to play with and a large adult make tiger ‘playing’ with a camera strap could end in a bit of a messy photo – apparently the colour red also makes them hungry ……. makes the whole experience seem a bit risky!

But, it was amazing, we queued up with cameras ready and each in turn a Thai man gently takes your hand and leads you to meet each of the sleeping or dozy tigers. Lying on the ground with a sleeping tiger that’s bigger than I am, with paws larger than my head stroking him while he purred in his sleep is an experience I will never forget.  For an extra 20 quid you can have a tiger head in your lap while they sleep but I didn’t go for that – too much money and I was happy to stroke them. In all I sat with 6 tigers including some 6 month old cubs.  Further into the park we came upon a bonus opportunity – a buddist monk with a young tiger more than happy to have close up photos, so I have a lovely shot of me placing a gentle kiss on the cheek of a sleeping cub listening to his heartbeat.  I noticed a milk bottle by his cage but there was no chance to feed him which is a shame, but still a wonderful experience. The reason the tigers are docile is because they have got used to human contact and are also given plenty of morning exercise and play in water to use up their energy before being fed huge amounts of red meat just in time for the queues of tourists to pour through the gate. Leaving the park we saw water buffalo submerged in a pool poking their noses out of the water to keep cool, loads of wild pigs, dogs, goats and horses.  Hardly anything to eat and they did look a bit poorly managed so I was glad to leave having made a donation. With time left in the day I joined a few others back at the River Kwai to kayak down the river and under the bridge as the sunset – a perfect end to a great day.  

Bridge on the River Kwai

From Chiang Rai e took an early morning bus back to Chiang Mai and spent a few hours relaxing – lunch followed by a foot massage!  At 5pm our taxi ’songteaw’ took us to the train station for an overnight train towards Bangkok, getting off at Ayuttayah at 4am.  However, 2 of our party failed to show up for the train (2 Ozzie blokes over 45, both with a heavy drink problem and severe lack of charm) and we went without them – no great loss! Pizza on the train and general merriement including a trip to the disco car and some silliness before bed at 11pm. In Ayuttayah we had breakfast by the river and took a songteaw tour of some of the main temples an ruins in this old city dating from the 15th century and before when it was Thailand’s capital. Plenty of photos later, it was time for a longer trip to Kanchanaburri, the location of the famous Bridge over the River Kwai. Arriving at sunset, we were taken in rickshaws to the war cemetary and then to the bridge itself. The sun set behind the famous arches and I was amazed to be able to walk along the tracks – with no barriers to prevent you from stepping over the edge. It was magic to walk the bridge albeit with the other tourists.  The area has inevitably become a tourist trap with every business calling itself ‘River Kwai’ or ‘ Bridge’ from massages, bars and gift shops to restuarants floating with lanterns on the water.  As we left a lively market was warming up, but it was time for our rickshaw guys to get us back to the Apple Guesthouse for dinner. 

Golden Triangle

Leaving Chiang Rai by minibus we took a short ride into the are known as the Golden Triangle. The meeting of 2 rivers and the borders of Thailand, Laos, Burma with China visible in the distance. This area was also famed for the mass production of Opium in previous years but thanks to an eradication programme and alternative crops such as coffee, the hill tribe villages and farmers no longer cultivate the poppy crop.  After a hot journey, lunch was on the banks of the river watching the long tail boats ferry tourists along the river. Afterwards we visited an Opium museum to learn about how the crop was grown, how the villagers lived with the habit of Opium smoking, and it’s consequences. The exhibits were fascinating and well put together for a small place, and having visited the Akha hill tribe it was more poignant to see them in their previous occupation. Avoiding the midday sun, at 4pm I joined fellow travellers on a small boat to take us at top speed along the river to Laos where for 20 baht (about 30p) we entered the country via a wooden shack and browsed the market on the river bank before returning to Thailand the same way and back to Chiang Rai in the darkness. Busy traffic into the city made the journey longer and by 8pm back at the hotel we all gathered for a dinner in the night bazarre before bed and much needed sleep. 

Hill Tribes Northern Thailand

After the bustle of Bangkok and Chang Mai we arrived in Chang Rai to join the staff of the PDA ( a group set up to help control the birth rate of the hill tribes) to take us up to the high country. Staying in basic bamboo huts in villages each night we trekked through jungles of bamboo, pine forest and open plantations of coffee and oranges. With temperaturs in the 80’s and humidity high it was tough going up steep hill trails, the only respite from fresh water streams and waterfalls. The villages themselves area amazing.  Lisu and Akha were the 2 we visited, both different but both friendly. Living off the land and some tourism, they earn a living from coffee which replaces the opium crops they used to profit from. At least coffee now is more lucrative and honest.  The coffee too is really good!  In Akha village I joined 2 travellers to dress with the ladies of the village in traditional costume before participating in some musical entertainment for the rest of the group and some local villagers! The costume was beautiful, with silver coins – indian rupees and others – and colourful balls of fabric, it was heavy too! The final day was al down hill through rice fields and fruit crops, past a chinese village and finally to meet our bus to take us back to the hotel in Chang Mai and a hot shower!

Bangkok!

Jan 10th

I arrived in Bangkok at 4am according to my bodyclock after an 8 hour flight from Sydney, checking into the Viengtai Hotel I fell asleep until 9am local time the next day.  Waking up in a strange city is a wierd feeling, nervous anxiety mixed with excitement of the new.  For the quivalent of 2 pounds I ate a buffet breakfast in the hotel (toast and eggs, croissant, jam and coffee) then headed out into the streets to look around.  The hotel is in the ‘backpacker’ area close to the Khao San Road – a short street of bazaars and street vendors neon lighting and everything from 24 hour internet to massages, beauty treatments and smoky bars. I bought a silk scarf which I might need for temple visits then walked to the Rambuttri Road and found ‘Wild Orchid’ a comfy looking open plan restaurant which served me Pad Thia Prawn for under 2 pounds.  An older couple in their 70’s from Austria chatted to me, telling me about their mammoth travel across SE Asia to mark the husband’s 80th birthday – they only married 10 years ago, so there is hope for me to find Mr Right and continue to travel into my old age!!!  I walked to the riverbank and through a small park where people were relaxing under trees, on park benches, nearby the Phra Sumen  fort was good for a few photos.  

Feeling a little jet lag and wilting in the humid heat I lazed by the hotel pool (very pleasant in a Spanish villa style) reading my Jackie Collins (almost finished) and later that evening went back to Wild Orchid for ‘Green Curry’ …. I was asleep again by 9pm!

Jan 12th

Started the day with another buffet breakfast then armed with water bottle and camera I headed out to find The Grand Palace and What Pra temple. The hotel porter told me not to take Tuk Tuk and convinced me that a woman alone would be  taken to shops where people would try to sell me stuff – I could have handled that with a firm ‘No’ but didn’t want the hassle so instead I walked along the River to the Grand Palace, about 40 minutes away. I got a bit lost!  walking through the university campus and along Maharat Road, a bustling street market  and hundreds of Thai people (hardly any tourists) buying food and other street items from the pavement hawkers. I walked along looking at the amulets, carved stones, charms and  portraits of the King and his family.  Recently the King’s sister died so the country is officially still mourning and there are shrines to her image all over the streets decorated with black and white ribbons, flowers and burning incense. I understand that Thai people are very dedicated to the King and his family which is evident in their behaviour. Finding the entrance to the palace eventually I queued up to by my ticket, 250 baht (about 3 pounds) then shuffled with the thousands to view the What Pra’s incredibly colourful temples and buildings, some decorated in gold tiles, all colours of mosaic and intricate lotus flowers carvings. It really was amazing, and I took over 200 photos! At a shrine to the Buddah, poeple offered lotus flowers and incense and hundreds of people in black made their way in organised lines towards the Palace to queue for hours in order to pay their respects to the Princess who lies there in state. Tourists were not allowed access and the Palace rooms are closed at weekends so all I could do was take photos and maybe go back another day.  On my way out I viewed the collection of royal jewels housed in an air conditioned (bliss) museum before heading back onto the streets.   Checking my map I was close to the National Musuem so headed there.  Free to enter and filled with history and intricate wooden buildings I did my best toi take in the facts about the country’s past and present.  I was tired, hot and thirsty though.  I was fascinated  by the royal funeral carriages housed inside a giant hall. These are used for state occasions and I asked a guide (who spoke very little english) if the princess would be carried in one of them at her funeral. He then patiently explained all about the ceremony, cremation and processions that take place.  I saw the carriage (huge) ornately decorated in painted and gilted wooden carvings, weighin 40 tonnes it’s pulled by guards from the military.  We may get to see this on British tv when the time comes – perhaps even our queen will attend?  Leaving the museum at around 2pm I headed to the riverside to navigate back to Khao San Road and the hotel.  I was thankful for the street sellers who stand out all day preparing fresh fruit and drinks, and for 30baht I had the best orange juice I have ever tasted! Drinking this I watched some fish jumping out  of a canal behind one of the ferry piers, the water looked horribly polluted and I wondered what these fish lived on.  Water Lilies seem to grow too, so it can’t be that bad. Stopping at a used book seller I found a James Patterson novel I had been looking for and paid 160 baht. Back at the Hotel I ate a light lunch of prawn with asparagus and tomato juice then headed to the pool again to cool off with my new book.  Jackie Collins will be donated to the book shop tomorrow! Refreshed again, I walked to Rambutrii Road backstreets for dinner of Yellow Curry at another open plan style restaurant with sofas and cushions and spent a few hours reading, watching people and drinking cold drinks. By darkness I was ready to experience something I had heard about – The Thai Massage!

Between Khao San Road and Rambutri Road is a series of cut through alleys where you can find all sorts of wierd and wonderful shops.  Inside a massage shop (like a cheap hair salon) I could see a row of beds the colour of bubble gum and lying on top like dead fish were women and men being pampered, prodded, preened and polished. I checked out the ‘menu’ and opted for a feet and shoulder massage thinking how serene and relaxed these customers looked. Paying my money (300 baht – honestly!) I was sent back into the shop where a small thai woman permanently crouched beneath a tap and wearing wellies washed my feet and towelled them before my masseuse took me upstairs giving me some cotton shorts to wear. In a  dark room  there were a number of mattresses where people were being pummelled!  I nearly ran downstairs but instead I decided to trust him and lie down. The 1/2 hr feet rub was good – reflexology like it should be, until he started to press his weight onto my legs and my thigh bones felt like they would snap. My shoulder massage was a full body workout!  I was folded, bent, crunched, pulled, twisted, squashed and reduced to a quivering jelly!  He even prodded around my head like he was examining my skull to check I was human! I had my eye sockets pressed, by nose squeezed, jawline cracked and ears pulled.  It did feel good, kind of. The worst part was when he stood on the back of my thighs and pulled my arms backwards, I thought I would snap! 

After a cup of warm tea, bottle of water and I was floating and ready to leave. By now it was 9pm.  However, I was tempted by one more thing – a full facial.  Lying in the ’serene’ room downstairs buried in towels, a thai woman with a kind smile smothered my face in thick creams, wiped them off, put them on again etc etc… Then came a series of wierd ‘power tools’ I felt like Dustin Hoffman in Marathon Man – is it safe?!  She put an abrasive motorised thing all over my face like she was whipping egg whites on my skin, then a sucky thing which felt like a thousand guppies all sucking the flesh off my face, followed by a mud mask so thick that when it started to dry into hard cement I couldn’t move my mouth to speak.  This was a pity on acount of how the tea and water was filling up my bladder fast and I wanted to tell her I needed the loo!  At this moment in my weakened state, she asked if I wanted an eyelash tint.. I think I said no, but she took it as yes and cheerfully covered my eyes in sticky stuff and cotton pads so now I couldn’t see either. Whilst I ‘marinated’ she got to work on my legs (more pummeling) and I had to focus hard not to think about needing the toilet.  Before long it was over, the cement was being ripped off my face like I was having a full facial waxing!  My eyes were given a bath and my face polished with soft, dry powders whilst she slapped my face with the palms of her hands. I was done. The effect felt nice, but I hadn’t transformed into a Hollywood beauty – shame!    It was 10pm, and I was just able to walk my battered body back to the hotel, my memory had already softened the horror of the massage and I found myself idly thinking about what other treatments I could have tomorrow………

Bye Bye Bondi…

So today I leave Australia behind…. I’ve been ‘Down Under’ since the beginning of September with 2 months in New Zealand and it’s all starting to feel a bit like home in many ways.  The familiar lingo “G’day how’s it goin?”  and “Sweet/Sweet As”  to indicate that something is good!  I am also very attached to my morning ritual of toasted banana bread with a flat white coffee and perhaps a freshly squeezed orange juice.  My favourite Sydney breccie spot being ‘Cafe Quattro’ in Hyde Park with an outdoors terrace overlooking a courtyard where chess is played by old men in deep thought using those giant sized  pieces.  I spent my time since New Year enjoying the beaches of Sydney at both Manly and Bondi, although due to poor weather along the entire East Coast (flooding and heavy rain) the swell was so big that all beaches were closed for a week.  However meantime I found a spot on Manly Cove near to the ferry wharf which has sheltered waters and soft golden sand (with a shark netted area for swimming) and in Bondi ( a place reminiscent of Bude in a funny way) the sweeping curve of sandy beach provided a great place to read my Jackie Collins trash novel and watch the posers strutting along the shoreline – just why is it that men who really shouldn’t wear speedos always do? - and someone should make it illegal to jog on beaches unless you have a really firm body – it’s just too distressing to the poor public otherwise! So here I am – my last day on Ozzie soil and reflecting on 4 months of amazing experiences in Australia and New Zealand.  To summarise  I though I would make a list:

• Flights: 1 helicopter (Bungle Bungles AUS), 1 hot air balloon (Cairns AUS), 1 pink plane (Taupo NZL - I jumped out stupidly)
• Animals: 2 sharks (Reef and wobbogong),  1 Manta Ray, 1 Koala (Maddy),  several Crocs (salties and freshies), a few Pythons,1 Kiwi, 1 possum, 1 tuatara, loads of Kangaroos and wallabies, several redback spiders, some scary looking jellyfish, a few humpback whales, 1 sperm whale (Big Nick), 1 Hectors dolphin (Akaroa), several Bottle Nosed Dolphins (Milford Sound) and loads of Dusky dolphins (Kaikora) a few horses, some camels, several Kea birds, Corrollas, blue penguins, yellow eyed penguins, Flying foxes and loads of other noisy birds everywhere….. especially bell birds singing at 4am and finally – billions and billions of glow worms (Waitomo caves)
• New Experiences: Scuba diving, Surfing, Abseiling (day and night), Night Kayaking phosphorescence, Sand boarding, Sydiving, Black Water rafting, White Water Rafting, Glacier Hiking, Bush Camping, Volcano hiking
• Wildest place: Crossing the Red Crater on  the Tongariro Crossing (New Zealand) 
• Remotest Place: The Kimberly Australia (also one of the hottest at 45 degrees)
• Wettest Place: Miford Sound NZL (those waterfalls were awesome) – tropical storm in Kakadu comes a close second!
• Bleakest Place: Coober Pedy, AUs ( it’s just  rocks…they all live in the ground in caves……also wierdest place along with ’Hobbiton’ film set (Matamata NZL)
• Highest Place: top of the Skytower in Auckland and 12,000 ft in a small pink plane (did I mention the skydive?!)
• Most scenic: Mt Sunday (NZL, Better known as Edoras from Lord of the Rings) and so many other places I can’t list them all (but they are nearly all in New Zealand!)

One day I will publish a full list of categories just for fun – that will have to do for now! So goodbye from the Antipodes and set course for Thailand….